This year the first artichokes (Alcauciles) are very early – late January rather than mid February. The flowers of the Cardillo are much sought after in Conil. The first ones are known as “cimeros”; they are the earliest that the plant gives and those of the highest quality since they are usually the most tender. You can recognise them by the “hole” in the centre of the flower. They are typically three times more expensive than the later examples.
We paid €26 for early season artichokes (alcauciles) plus podded peas and beans. We were too embarrassed to say no thanks.
We vowed not to buy fruit and vegetables from the Mercado de Abastos again. Manolo says none of the locals do. They even avoid buying fish and prefer to travel to Chiclana. For me the freshness and choice of fish in Conil is worth the price.
Francisco Vázquez who runs the fruit and vegetable stand (puesto 11) in the Mercado de Abastos is clearly passionate about Alcauciles. He is a cook by profession and a lover of the gastronomy of the area. He has written two books, one on the bluefin tuna from the Almadraba and the other focused on the traditions of the town and, especially, on artichokes. He worked for years at the Flamenco Hotel as a cook but then decided to start his own business selling fruit and vegetables. His parents worked a farm in El Mayorazgo.
Vázquez is determined to recover the traditional cuisine of Conil: his obsession is that this culture is not lost. In his latest book, “Rites and customs in the Conilian cuisine”, edited by the Conil City Council and the Association for Rural Development of the La Janda Coastline, he is concerned about the future of traditional cuisine.
We made the traditional Lenten stew. Gorgeous! An alternative would be a stew of artichokes and potatoes.
