Calamares are relatively inexpensive and can be prepared in many ways. I like them stuffed and braised. In this case the stuffing consists of fried onion, breadcrumbs, jamon and parsley. They are braised in fish stock with a good pinch of saffron .We first tried them served this way as we left the beach in Conil one lunchtime for a beer and a tapa. The bar was unremarkable and has since vanished. The cook was a middle-aged woman who bore a striking resemblance to Valerie’s Auntie Peg. The food was spectacularly good. Ever since we refer to this dish as Spanish Peg’s stuffed calamares.