They have been fishing for Bluefin Tuna (Atún Rojo) in Conil for thousands of years They use a traditional method known as Almadraba. In the spring nets are positioned close to the Straits of Gibraltar where the tuna migrate from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, The tuna swim through a system of nets until they reach a central area, encircled by boats; the net is then lifted and the largest specimens selected.
The almadraba in September and October, catches fish of inferior quality than those caught in the spring. Almadraba, comes from an Arabic word meaning strike. It is a great example of sustainable fishing – only tuna are caught, no by catch, and only the biggest are kept; the others are returned to the ocean. There is no waste, and no over-fishing.
When we first started coming to Conil, thirty years ago, grilled tuna “a la plancha” or tuna and onion stew “encebollado” were the only options to be found on restaurant menus. The situation now couldn’t be more different. There is an annual celebration of the tuna known as “La Ruta del Atun” where each restaurant showcases tuna recipes and competes for awards There is usually a demonstration of tuna butchery where each cut is displayed. Restaurants feature their award winning recipes on menus and individual cuts are offered (my favourite is Mormillo, a juicy morsel located at the back of the head) Mojama, air dried tuna loin, is now served as a delicacy rather than just something that old men might eat. There are two specialist shops selling preserved tuna products (Salazones y Conservas) The old Tuna processing quarter “La Chanca” has been renovated and made into a public space.
Conil is Tuna Heaven
The Txicote restaurant occasionally serves tuna liver (higado de atun) which is like a salty foie gras,very rich and delicious (and probably full of mercury)
